Understanding eye creams and their purpose
Eye creams make many claims — such as getting rid of crow’s feet, plumping up dry skin, banishing dark circles and shrinking puffiness under the eyes. Though not all eye creams live up to their claims, they are more than just moisturizers.
The skin around your eyes can dry out easily. It’s quick to show age, fatigue and the effects of a late night out. Fine lines and wrinkles usually start to appear around the eyes when you’re in your late 20s and 30s. No matter the cause, it’s reasonable to want to conceal these undesired effects.
However, it should be noted that the under-eye skin is more fragile than other areas. The thinner, more sensitive skin needs specialized skin care products. That’s where eye cream comes in.
Read on to learn more about eye cream, common product claims and whether it’s right for you.
What science says about eye cream effectiveness
Scientific research has shown that eye cream can effectively reduce the effects of aging around the eyes. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, peptides, antioxidants and retinoids are popular in eye creams.
These active ingredients are gentle enough to use on under-eye skin, yet powerful enough to improve appearance. They can target concerns such as:
- Skin elasticity
- Dryness
- Inflammation
- Hyperpigmentation
- Wrinkles
- Collagen production
Results and effectiveness depend on the concern(s) at hand. Some ingredients target hyperpigmentation, while others target wrinkles. Proper and consistent use of eye cream is also important for attaining the best results.
When choosing an eye cream, it’s important to address your own concerns. Consider speaking with your provider and doing personal research to find the right product for you.
Key ingredients that make eye creams work
Eye creams can contain specialized ingredients intended to nourish and restore delicate skin around the eyes. Some of the ingredients to look for include:
- Peptides – Specialized proteins that are building blocks for the collagen and elastin fibers in your skin. Peptides can help improve the fullness of skin around the eyes.
- Ceramides – Compounds composed of fatty acids called emollients. These emollients help form a barrier that locks moisture into your skin, preventing dryness.
- Niacinamide – A form of vitamin B3. It functions as an antioxidant and has both brightening and hydrating action.
- Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) – A potent fat-soluble antioxidant made by your body. CoQ10 can help protect the skin from sun damage and lessen the appearance of wrinkles, but its production declines with age.
- Hyaluronic acid – A popular ingredient in skin creams that soak into the skin and attract water to hydrate dry skin. It’s a type of humectant — a substance that retains or restores moisture.
- Glycerin – Another humectant used to moisturize and hydrate dry skin. It stays on the surface more than hyaluronic acid and has better barrier function. It also binds water.
- Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) – Naturally occurring organic acids found in several foods and milk sugars. These gentle exfoliating acids are used in many cosmetic formulations to improve skin texture and tone and smooth fine wrinkles. They include lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid and others.
- Ferulic acid – An antioxidant that boosts the action of other antioxidants and helps reduce fine lines.
- Ellagic acid – An antioxidant found in fruits and berries that helps improve and brighten the skin’s appearance.
- Vitamin C – A classic antioxidant that is thought to support collagen and brighten skin.
- Vitamin E – Moisturizes and soothes the skin.
- Vitamin K – Sometimes included in formulas to improve circulation and lessen dark circles.
- Caffeine – Decreases puffiness and can help constrict blood vessels.
- SPF (sun protection factor) – Helps prevent sun damage and wrinkles.
- Retinoids and retinol – Derivatives of vitamin A that can reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Retinol makes skin appear younger by speeding up removal of old, damaged cells. It also helps stimulate collagen production.
Note: Eye creams with retinoids can be irritating. They should be carefully used around the delicate skin under the eye. Stop or limit using an eye cream that seems to irritate the under-eye skin.
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Can eye creams reduce wrinkles?
As you age, the oil-producing glands in your skin may produce less oil and begin to dry out. Your skin may lose elasticity and firmness due to a loss of collagen, elastin and a loss of deeper fat layers. This may lead to more fine lines and wrinkles. Look for emollients that can help plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Retinoids are also well known for reducing fine wrinkles and helping skin regain a more youthful appearance. Retinol contains a lower concentration of the active ingredient and can be gentler on sensitive skin around the eyes.
Humectants and moisturizers should also be in the cream. Plus, you’ll want ingredients that support collagen, such as vitamin C and specialized peptides. They can help maintain skin elasticity and address wrinkles and crow’s feet.
Do eye creams work on dark circles?
Dark circles under the eyes are often due to fatigue or a lack of sleep. They can also be due to genetics, where the skin beneath or around the eyes is naturally a darker hue. Sun exposure, allergies, menstrual cycles and age are also important factors.
As you age, the already delicate skin around your eyes can become even thinner, and blood vessels beneath the skin will be more visible. This can give the impression of darker pigmentation.
To conceal dark circles caused by genetics and hyperpigmentation, try a moisturizing eye cream with brighteners, followed by a concealer. A hydrating, moisturizing eye cream plumps up wrinkles and smooths the surface of the skin.
For any kind of dark under-eye circles, you may look for creams containing antioxidants, Vitamin C and retinoids. These support healthy collagen and improve the appearance of under-eye skin. Caffeine helps to constrict blood vessels if they are contributing to the appearance of dark circles.
Are eye creams effective for puffiness?
Puffiness often goes along with dark circles under the eyes. Eye puffiness can be due to:
- Aging
- Stress
- Fatigue or poor sleep
- Overconsumption of salt
- Medical conditions
- Eye conditions such as blepharitis and eye allergies
- Crying
Puffy eyes can also be more noticeable when you wake in the morning. This is because you have not blinked all night, and fluid has accumulated under the skin. As you age, fatty tissue can push forward into the area under the eye.
The best puffy-eye creams will help improve circulation and shrink slightly swollen tissues. Caffeine and antioxidants are known to help improve circulation, which can reduce dark circles. In addition, refrigerating your eye cream will keep it cold, and cold can help lessen puffiness.
It’s important to note that, depending on the cause, eye creams may not be able to reduce puffiness. If you think an eye condition like blepharitis could be causing your swollen eyelids, see your eye doctor for the appropriate treatment.
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Eye cream vs. face moisturizer: Is there a difference?
Yes, there is a difference between eye cream and face moisturizer.
Eye creams are formulated for the delicate, thin skin around the eyes, with ingredients like antioxidants, skin-healing ingredients, emollients, fatty acids and collagen. Eye cream formulations hydrate and nourish without blocking pores around the eyes. Blocked pores can lead to unsightly little white bumps called milia.
In addition, the thin skin around the eyes is vulnerable to swelling, discoloration, eyelid dermatitis, bags under the eyes and puffiness. The proper eye cream can help address many of these issues. Eye creams can help build collagen, keep skin cells healthy, lighten discoloration and dark circles, and restore moisture and a healthy skin barrier.
Face moisturizers are not specially formulated for the sensitive eye area. They’re often heavier in weight and can cause irritation. In some cases, they may even contribute to puffiness. Some moisturizers also include oils and other irritants that are not suitable for the eye area.
Myths and misconceptions about eye creams
Does eye cream work against all signs of aging? Are results instant? Here’s some insight on common misconceptions.
Myth: Eye creams erase all aging signs
Eye creams don’t promise to “erase” all aging signs. But they can reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and other concerns. Results depend on the product, use and personal experience.
Myth: They’re just expensive moisturizers
Eye creams are not just expensive moisturizers. The formulation of eye cream is specially designed to be gentle on delicate under-eye skin. They aren’t as heavy as moisturizers and don’t include ingredients that are too harsh for the eye area.
Truth: Consistency matters more than instant results
While under-eye makeup can quickly hide dark circles, results aren’t always immediate with eye creams. A consistent eye cream and skin care routine can deliver results within a few weeks. Regular use is more effective for maintaining your desired appearance.
Note: Don’t continue using eye cream if it irritates your skin, even for the sake of being consistent.
How to choose the right eye cream
The right eye cream depends on the results you seek. Some aim to prevent wrinkles, while others want to minimize the effects of aging. But a single product may not address both of these goals.
Consider your skin type as well. If you have sensitive skin, gentle and fragrance-free products are a better option. You should also avoid creams that contain any ingredients you’re sensitive to.
Reading product reviews and doing your own research is also a way to find the right product for your skin. Consider products at different price points — but remember that if something is more expensive, it doesn’t mean it is better.
When in doubt, talk to your dermatologist. They can provide personal recommendations and custom instructions for use.
Tips for maximizing eye cream benefits
Eye cream alone can provide positive results. But there are some other factors to consider to maximize these benefits. This includes proper application techniques and healthy lifestyle habits.
Proper application
No matter which eye cream you choose, it’s important not to rub it in, but to gently pat it onto the skin. You may find that using your ring finger will be both gentle and precise. Use a small amount. Don’t apply too close to the lashes. Wait a minute or two while the cream is fully absorbed.
Experts recommend using a light, SPF-formulated cream in the morning. A thicker, SPF-free formula should be used at bedtime.
Eye cream should be applied before moisturizer, sunscreen or concealer.
Healthy lifestyle habits
It’s also important to incorporate healthy lifestyle habits. For optimal results, be sure to:
- Get enough sleep
- Manage stress
- Stay hydrated
- Avoid smoking
- Limit your salt intake
- Use sunscreen
If you have persistent issues or you don’t see any results after a reasonable amount of time, you may want to consult a dermatologist or an eye doctor.
When eye creams aren’t enough
If you’ve tried your fair share of eye creams and still aren’t seeing results, you may want to talk to your doctor about more medical solutions. These include options such as:
- Botox – Small amounts of botulinum toxin are injected into certain facial muscles to stop them from contracting. This allows the muscles to relax, which helps reduce wrinkles.
- Dermal filler – Cosmetic fillers are carefully injected around the area of concern. This can eliminate wrinkles and brighten the overall appearance of the under-eye skin.
- Chemical peels – Thin layers of skin are removed with the help of a specially formulated peel. This can help eliminate wrinkles and fine lines.
- Laser resurfacing – Lasers are applied to the skin to stimulate growth of collagen. This smooths and firms the targeted areas of skin.
- Blepharoplasty – Eyelid surgery that removes fatty tissue and excess skin. This can reduce the look of under-eye bags.
- Prescription medication – Allergy medication may be prescribed to reduce under-eye swelling caused by allergies.
Under-eye bags, wrinkles and puffiness are often only cosmetic — not medical concerns. Surgery and certain treatments may not be covered by insurance if they are not primarily medical.
If you experience unusual swelling or other symptoms for more than a day or two, contact your eye doctor. Speak with them about the best course of action for you, whether it’s medical or cosmetic.
